#48 Tromsø: Top of the World

From the bottom of Norway to the top. We jumped on an internal Norwegian Air flight (with the promise of free in-flight WiFi that was BROKEN) for two hours and found ourselves in snow covered Tromsø. We were now inside the Arctic Circle for the first time in my life, and it was cold.

We jumped on the rather affordable airport flybussen, dropping us off just around the corner from our hotel – though those two blocks required some serious effort as we trudged with our luggage through the fresh snow. Due to the lateness of sorting out our accommodation, we had to split our lodgings for our time in Tromsø, with the first night being at the Smart Hotel and the other nights elsewhere. The Smart Hotel is extremely affordable and offers complimentary WiFi as well as a spacious 10m²… It also may have been the only option…

View from our room, winter wonderland!

Cozy cozy Smart Hotel room

Not to be deterred by the size of our rooms, we began making Gin and Tonics whilst crammed into Grans room with greasy kebabs on the menu for dinner. After the light beverages, we were still super excited to see the Northern Lights and not even the 100% cloud cover could deter us from walking around Tromsø in the early hours of the morning – unfortunately to no avail. However, the city did still look amazing at night – check out my sick phone photos.

Quality photos taken with a HTC One (m8)

We started the second day by moving to our alternate accommodation – a much more sizable apartment fitting everyone and a kitchen with glassware for our Gin’s. It even had a spa bath, which was ridiculously mounted on a 1-2m high… thing. Looking for something to do, Tromsø is trying to market itself as a city ‘not just for the Northern Lights’, we wandered down to the local glass blowing shop, passing the time by watching two lovely ladies making a serving plate – glass blowing is definitely a refined skill, so intense.

The day drew to a close with a flurry of fresh snow, a few hot chocolates in a cafe where all the waiters wore bow ties and a ‘quick’ father and son trip to the Beerhouse attached to the Mack brewery (conveniently located around the corner from the apartment). I won’t bore you with the details, but they had something like 60 beers on tap… and the several that we tried were delicious.

Glass blowing ladies, just starting off.

The view across the the mainland

The mark of Australia

Trendy coffee shop, rocking the bow-ties and dripped coffee

Snow flurries followed by major snow flurries. S’ah much snow.

Tens on tens of beer taps!

Making our own drinks in the apartment, a Harding money saving technique, not founded by us.

Just when you thought the day was over, surprise! a 5 minute, $50 cab ride to the midnight concert at the cathedral! For those that were able to stay awake through out, I hear that it was quite good, I, however, was so tired that I was struggling to keep my eyes open – it did not help that one of the songs was a Norwegian lullaby. The northern lights were not seen due to extensive cloud cover, but we all remained hopeful as it was only the second night.

The cathedral for the midnight concert

Day three, a lazy day. Whilst still exhausted from the midnight musical extravaganza (ok, it was only 30 minutes) a sleep in was warranted, we really didn’t do anything of note. All the excitement would come that night when we were to go dog sledding. Yup, dog sledding in the Arctic Circle, so awesome. This was one of our prime opportunities to see the Northern Lights, being forced awake during the night time, combined with sitting in the middle of nowhere, on a sled, led by 6 dogs. Ever hopeful.

…

Sledding was amazing. I would now recommend that everyone should do it, even Gran had a go behind the ‘wheel’, if you will. Sure there were times when it was freezing and the falling snow would land in your eyes making it hard to see, subsequently melting and running down inside your onesie, but that’s all part of the experience. Or, the great times when you’re sitting on your sled and your girlfriend is steering; she loses her footing and being dragged behind the sled holding on for her dear life… Not sure how we got out of that one.

Our sledding adventure guide was nice enough to point out the Northern Lights doing their thing behind the clouds (you can see a light green patch in the otherwise grey clouds), but this cannot be called a sighting – the only disappointing thing about the night. We headed back to the apartment exhausted from our adventures and discussed how wild Gran is, steering the lead sled.

 Em’s ready to rock

  Dad looking hillarious, but also ready to rock

Mum and Gran, confirmed. Ready to rock

Meeting the dogs

Dad and Gran listening to the ‘how to do dog sledding’ briefing

Mum and Dad keen to get going

  The dogs literally howling with anticipation. They know it’s time to get going.

 Dogs having a rest whilst the driver and passenger switch seats

    Dogs veering off course. Fortunately we are stopped.

Post-sledding fireside tea and coffee

Day four, departure. Creeping up on us, no-one really had worked out we were leaving until Dad brought it up. The day involved a little more wandering around Tromsø and preparing for our sea voyage on the Hurtigruten boat, MS Vesterålen. Before our 1am departure we had a dinner booking at the Arctandria Sjømatrestaurant – chosen by me, aimed at fulfilling a desire to try the exotic reindeer meat.

Dinner was excellent. Most of the dishes were seafood, each travel companion praising their dishes. Everything was perfect. I tried the whale carpaccio (wasn’t really for me, but I decided it was a now or never moment) and the reindeer steak (delicious).

The sexy interior of Arctandria Sjømatrestaurant

Reindeer Steak, looks just like normal steak!

Whale Carpaccio. Not really for my taste.

A picture of whatever Dad ordered.

After dinner we grabbed our bags and boarded our boat, destination Bodø. Our days in the north have become limited and we still haven’t seen the Northern Lights, the boat is pretty much our last chance!